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January
10, 1999
We
are still in Caracas. The boat arrived yesterday with the container full
of our bikes. The agent is with customs today, attempting to clear. We
should have some word by late today or early tomorrow morning as to how
long it will take. But, since the auto club where we need to acquire or
carnetīs from is closed till Monday, it appears that we will be here at
least till then. If they will not need us around over the weekend I think
that we will head for the coast for a couple of days. We are getting very
anxious to get underway. Caracas has been a wonderful experience. I like
it very much. The people are very attractive, since they are of
predominately European blood, but with light suntanned skin. In the city
the population appears to be quite young and modern. Everyone is well
dressed and groomed. Men still give up their seats on the Metro. A smile
is returned with a smile, and everyone seems friendly and helpful, and
quite glad to see you here. We are amazed by the activity here. For a
country that is supposed to be in recession due to the low oil prices,
things seem to be doing quite well. I canīt imagine what it must have
been like during the boom. Thatīs about it for now, we hope to stay in
touch but donīt know exactly when or where we will have access to the
Internet.
January
15,1999
Well
we are finally on our way. We managed to get the bikes out of customs with
the help of my friend, Andrew Perez at the Venezuelan Consulate. He made
some calls that finally got some action out of the folks at the customs
house. We left Caracas with some mixed emotions, since we had become quite
comfortable there. But, we were also excited to be on our way. We got our
start on Friday the 15th, making our way out of Caracas to Malacy,
Valencia and stopping for the night in Guanare. We traveled about 250
miles that first day. We were at 3,500 ft in Caracas and descended to
about 500 ft by the time we got to Guanare where it was not. We were quite
beat by the end of the day and opted to stop rather than press onward. The
next morning we headed out towards Barinas were we turned westward towards
the Andes. We stopped in Barinitas to take a break, but we were excited to
get going as we could see the Andes from here. We resumed or journey
heading up into the Andes.
We
reached Pico El Aguila, the highest road pass in all of Venezuela at
13,600 ft.. It was quite cool so we popped into a warming hut there,
getting some hot chocolate and warming up by the fire. After our break we
headed back down towards Merida, were we spent the night. Merida is a
charming university town in the Andes. At the hotel we selected we found
all the rooms had been reserved by a group from the Nazarene church coming
to help the local farmers. As luck would have it they did have one last
space available' their [deluxe Suite[. It was a two bedroom, two bath with
an adjoining room on the corner overlooking all the action! Each room had
a balcony where we watched the men ride their horses in to town for their
Saturday night beers. These men never got off their horses, but yelled in
to the bartender who served them outside. It was quite a sight and we
wondered what their drinking and riding laws might be. We made our way to
the centro, main square, looking for a restaurant. It seems they celebrate
the holidays here until February 3rd so while we did not find a
restaurant, we saw some of the most amazing Christmas decorations! We
finally returned to the hotel for dinner and an early evening. Everyone
that lived in and around Merida cruised the streets under our rooms
setting off fireworks and partying until the wee hours of the morning!
The
next day brought us the kind of day every motorcyclist dreams of. We road
from Merida to San Cristobal via Tovar, Bailadores, La Grita and El Cobre.
The distance is 162 miles and it took us all day to cover this distance.
The distance between Bailadores and La Grita is only 10 miles as the crow
flies but takes 50 miles to cover due to the numerous curves getting over
the pass at 10,300 ft.. John and I figure that there was a curve almost
every 300 ft on average, most hairpin turns, and that we made close to
7,000 shifts. The scenery was spetacular. We stopped for gas and lunch in
La Grita. We had one of our best meals at the Restaurante La Grita at the
intersection with the road to El Cobre. We ordered arroz con pollo, which
was made with a light curry flavouring, and we gobbled it up not knowing
if we were just hungry or if it really was that good. On the way over the
next pass, which was not quite has high, 8,300 ft, Vicki`s bike developed
some trouble. Her oil pressure light kept coming on. We checked the oil
level and found that it was a quart low, so we filled it up, and started
off again, but that did not fix it. We pulled over again and laid the bike
over on its side thinking we would change the oil pressure sensor. But we
did not have a wrench that would fit it. It takes a 24mm wrench and the
largest we had was a 22mm. While we had the bike on its side we noticed
that oil had been blowing out from around the sensor, and so dirt had
built up on it. So I cleaned it off and reconnected it.
Where
we had to stop was the only place with three feet of concrete and a large
male turkey that took our motorcycles as a threat to his territory. He
proceeded to strut around, extend his feathers and verbally challenge us.
We decided that we had to try to find a place with a wrench if we were
going to do anything. So we asked around about a gas station and we were
told there was one not too far down the road. So we loaded everything back
on the bikes and headed down the road leaving the turkey secure in the
fact that he had faithfully defended his property. Vicki indicated shortly
after starting that the problem had corrected itself. We managed to make
it all the way to San Cristobal before dark and got ourselves checked in
to a hotel.
The
next morning we got an early start on securing the carnets needed for the
rest of the trip. First stop was passport pictures for John and then over
to the Touring y Automovil Club de Venezuela to apply for our carnets. A
nice young lady showed us in and made copies of our titles and the entry
permits given to us by the National Guard. She filled out the forms with
our help and told us to come back around 5:00 pm to collect the finished
documents. They cost about $300.00 US for each one and after the trouble
we had with customs in La Guira we decided it was cheap insurance. We did
not want to get to some border deep in South America and be asked for
them. It turns out $110.00 US is refundable when we return to Venezuela so
it really is cheap insurance.
We
are now ready for our crossing into Colombia! After loading our
motorcycles this morning, checking out of the hotel and going up for that
last cup of coffee the skies opened and fog moved in. We kept drinking
coffee hoping things would clear but an hour later we decided to scrap the
day, check back in to the hotel and get an early start tomorrow morning.
It looks like it was a good decision as the rain has finally stopped and
the skies are clearing. You
are now completely up to date on our journies. We will be in touch from
our next cyber cafe stop - wherever that may be!
January
30,1999
We
finally made it across into Colombia on the 20th of January. The customs
procedures took up most of the day, but we met three Japanese riders on
Honda 250's that were waiting at the customs office for paperwork also. We
ended up staying the night in Cucuta, Colombia . The next day we started
out for Bucaramanga, Colombia and on our way out of town we were stopped
by the police. The asked for our papers and asked if we weren't afraid.
They said that there had been some rebel activity up the road the day
before and that several trucks and twenty persons had been detained by the
rebels.
We
said that we were not afraid, but promised to check with the National
Police in Pampolana, prior to entering the area where the trouble had
been. We do so and they say that everything is under control. I figured
that the best day to go through would be the day after trouble, as they
would surely beef-up security. When we get to the location of the trouble
there is another military checkpoint, they ask us where we are going, and
let us go.
Shortly
afterwards my bike developed trouble, sputter's and then quits all
together on a hill. We push it up hill a short ways to a level spot where
we start to tackle the problem. I am not getting any spark. So we start
replacing electronic components. First the coil, then the diode board and
finally the control canister. This finally fixes it. We laod everything
back-up and take off. But, after a short while it sputter's again. We now
think that it is a short. We wiggle a few wires and it starts again. We
manage to make it into Bucaramanga, but he bike has not been running
right. I finally figure it out the next morning. I had loosened the
negative lead to the battery in order to disconnect it while we were
working on it, and failed to tighten it again, thus causing it to loose
power from time to time.
From
Bucaramanga we travel to Tunja and then on to Bogota. We are at the
airport using the Internet cafe there, trying to catch-up on our email
when the place starts to sway. Vicki asks if we feel the building moving
or if it just her. We say that yes we feel it and all notice that the
doors are moving and that hanging signs are swinging. We take notice but
no one seems too upset by the whole thing. When we leave the airport the
cab driver asks if we have heard about the terrible earthquake. We say
that we felt it, but he starts to tell us about all the dead and the
devastation in and around Armenia, Colombia. Our plans have us going
through this area the very next day, the television is non-stop coverage
about the damage, and the pictures look grim. So we make plans to take an
alternate route down the Rio Magdalena river valley and cross over the
mountains back to Popayan.
However,
when we stop the next morning for air and gas, a man asks us where we are
going. I tell him of our plans, as we have heard about the earthquake. He
says that the area we plan to go is not safe and that the road over the
mountains is not very good. I don't know how much of this is true, but we
decide to take his advise and proceed through the area of the earthquake,
which he says that we should be able to get through on the bikes.
So
we make our way towards Armenia. As we get near we stop for a rest stop at
a place along the road. We have seen a lot of landslides and parts of the
road had collapsed. We asked the owner of the place if he had suffered any
damage, and he pointed out some structural damage, and said that all the
merchandise had been thrown to the floor. They had spent the day cleaning
up. As we entered the area of the earthquake we saw people lined up for
water. While others seemed dazed and where sitting in front of what had
been their home or business. Others were packing up what they could
salvage in to their cars or pick-up's. We had to cover a distance of about
290 miles that day since there was no water or electricity for anything,
much less hotels in the area of the earthquake. So we made it to Palmira
after dark, but we at least had a hotel with utilities. The following day
we made the short run to Popayan and checked into the Hotel El Monasterio,
a converted 18th century Franciscan monastery.
John
and Sally have been reading "Jupiter's Travels" by Ted Simon,
and mention that they read that he had stayed here twenty-five years
earlier, during his around the world journey. We make our way to the
border town of Ipiales where we spend the night, so as to give us an early
start at the border procedures. The next day we make our way to the
border, and have the bikes and ourselves stamped out. This usually goes
rather quick as they don't mind seeing you go. But, when we get to the
Ecuadorian side we get our passports stamped, they stamp our carnet's and
we are through in record time. If the carnet's get us through the borders
this quickly from now on, then we made a wise investment.
We
make our way to Otavalo, Ecuador where we stay at the Casa de Hacienda a
few kilometers out of town. It is located in a verdant green valley
surrounded by two volcano's. It is a very tranquil place. We arrive on
Friday knowing that the village is known for its Saturday market, and
spend the night so that we can go to the market the next morning. The
market the next day is wonderful. The indigenous people arrive in their
native dress, set-up stalls covering a plaza that's an entire block and
spills over into the streets that approach the plaza for blocks. The
colors, sights and sounds remind me very much of the market at
Chichicastenango, Guatemala. We return to the hotel for lunch and load up
making our way to Quito, Ecuador, the capitol of this country. On the way
we pass the Equator. Quito is a large city and we are glad that we have
hit it on a weekend, so that the traffic isn't so bad as we enter a
strange town. This brings you up to date with our travels, as I am writing
this from a cyber cafe in Quito, Ecuador. Thanks to all of those who wrote
with their concerns for us, due to the earthquake. We are alive and well,
and will continue to send reports as we get the opportunity.
February
14, 1999
I
have been remiss in getting our travel log out. So for all those who have
been clamoring for it, here goes. When I last wrote we were in Quito,
Ecuador. We enjoyed Quito quite a bit, even though we had quite the
experience with the cabby from hell. We hired him to lead us through town
to the hotel, and he took it as some kind of race challenge. We managed to
also catch the Super Bowl game on TV, even though it was not a very good
game. Things got pretty crazy upon our departure from Quito. We left early
in order to try to beat the rush hour traffic, when we came to a small
town on the outskirts of Quito called Lasso. As we entered town there was
a railroad crossing. Normally this would not be a big deal, but it had
been raining and there where puddles in and around the area where the
crossing was. It turns out that there were large holes on either side of
the tracks, hidden by the fact that they were full of water. The tracks
alone can be a problem to motorcycles, but you mix that with the fact that
they were wet and that the asphalt was torn up on either side, and you
have the recipe for disaster. I managed to get over all right, but when I
looked back in my mirror, I saw John pulling over to the right and
stopping. So, I pulled over and stopped, but when I looked back I saw
Vicki's bike literally upside down in the middle of the street. It was
resting on the handlebars, seat and saddlebags, with the tires straight up
in the air. I made a U-turn and rode back to her. She was up and walking
around, but was holding what I thought was her hand, which I thought she
had injured in the fall. I asked her if she was all right and she said
yes, but I did not know if this was just shock talking. Later I came to
find out that it was her hip that had been injured. Several by-standerīs
righted the bike and helped to get it out of the street. I surveyed the
damage while Sally checked on Vicki. The bike suffered minor damage. The
windshield was demolished and the right hand mirror had broken at the
shaft. This was the damage that was immediately apparent. John and I fixed
things as best possible, by removing what was left of the windshield and
replacing the mirror with one that I had brought as a replacement. When we
got ready to start out again, I noticed that one of the brackets that
holds the saddlebags in place had broken in the fall. We bungeed things as
best we could and agreed to look for someplace to get it welded. We had
not traveled more than a few kilometers, when I spotted a wrought iron
shop. We made a quick U-turn and went there to have a new piece made. We
were back on the road without too much delay. We made it just past
Riobamba in time for lunch, even with the accident and all. So, we figured
that we could make it into Cuenca without too much trouble. Well, that was
the first mistake, as we did not realize that the road had been severely
damaged by last years El Nino rains. The owner of the restaurant had told
us that it would take us another five to six hours to get there. He also
said that he hoped that it was not raining in the mountains for us. We
said bye, and shortly afterwards it started to rain. We were heading up a
mountain, the fog was getting worse and the rain was making it impossible
to see. We finally decided to give up the glasses and faceshields, because
we could not see at all otherwise. The road went from bad to worse, and it
was getting later and later. We finally pulled into Cuenca at 9pm that
evening. I think that we all thought about shipping our bikes home at some
point during this day. The only saving grace to this day was the fact that
the hotel that we had tried so hard to make, was well worth the effort.
When we arrived they presented us with hot towels, like the ones that they
give on airplane flights, which came in handy due to the fact that we had
driven with our faceshields open and our faces were covered in mud. I
doubt that they will be able to use those towels again, since they were
covered in grime after we used them. Another one of their welcome
courtesies was a hot toddy made from a local liqour which tasted allot
like hot spiced cider and was so good we asked for seconds. We spent the
next day relaxing in Cuenca, but we had heard that there was to be a
general strike nationwide, that would close the highways and borders, for
an indefinite amount of time. So we decided to make a run for the border.
But we knew that the road there included some dirt portions, and after the
experience of the other day, we weren't sure how long it would take, and
whether we would make it to the border in time, since it closes at 6pm in
the afternoon. Needless to say we arrived at the border at five-twenty,
and I asked for the immigration office. They pointed back towards the
nearest town and said in the Municipal Building. We rode back like bats
out of Hell and found the place. We ran up and presented our passports.
The officer asked for our entry forms and we said that they only stamped
our passport upon entry. He informed us that the stamp we had was only a
customs stamp and not an immigration stamp, thus we were in the country
illegally. I said,Ļ We are leaving and have been through the entire
country without anyone questioning our papers. So what do we do now?ĻĻ
He said that there was a fine and I asked how much. He said ten thousand
sucres each. Well that was just fine, as that amount works out to be about
a dollar fifty each. But, we had to fill out the entry forms which we had
not done when entering and every minute that passed made it less likely
that we would get across. Finally, it was over and we raced back to the
border arriving at five fifty. We rushed into the customs office to get
our motorcycle papers stamped out of Ecuador and they take their sweet
time. The immigration officer from the Peruvian side comes over the bridge
to advise us to hurry as he is getting ready to close. Each one of us
rushes over as soon as their papers are stamped, but there is a form to
fill out. By the time I finish with this, I run over to the customs office
to get the bike stamped in. The officer is there grining and says,
"Sorry we are closed." I ask, "What know?" He tells me
that we will have to leave the bikes there at the bridge over night and
stay in some dive around the corner, where the bed bugs are fierce.
However, if we are willing to pay for overtime, they can stay open. He
informs me that for twenty bucks a bike he will get us through. I know
that this is highway robbery, but what choice do we have. By the time we
get out it is getting dark and the closest place with any decent
accommodations is one hundred kilometers away. So we ride about thirty
minutes past the border to a little village called Suyo, where we find
some lodging that stops just short of camping. We end up with two rooms,
with two cots each and a bathroom outside around the corner of the
building. The next day we make it into Piura, but while loading Vickiīs
bike in the morning, we notice that there are some more spots that need
some welding. While we are getting it worked on someone points out a nail
in her rear tire. We wait to pull it at the hotel, so that if it leaks, we
will at least be were we can fix it. When we finally pull the nail,
nothing happens, but we decide to check the other tire. It has a thorn in
it and when we pull it, the tire goes flat immediately. So we pull the
tire and replace the tube with a new one. We patch the old one and keep it
as a spare. The next day we make our way to Chiclayo. The road is pretty
good, but the bridges have been destroyed by the rains of the previous
year, and most have detours around them. We stay an extra day in this area
as there are allot of Pre-Columbian ruins here. Next, we ride down to
Chimbote, which is not much of anything except a port town, and a place
for us to stay. The following day we are headed up into the Cordillera
Blanca to a town called Huaraz. We have been warned about the mountain
roads in the rainy season, so we opt to take the asphalt road to the
South. It means ridding up two hundred kilometers and back tracking to
Paramonga to catch the road into Lima. On our way up we go over a 13,800ft
pass, finally ending up at 10,500ft, when we get to Huaraz. Which is
nestled at the foot of Mount Huarascan, an area that is very popular with
mountain climbers. We spend two nights in the cool mountain air, before
making our way back down to the coast and the road into Lima. On the way
into Lima, we get nailed by two motorcycle cops with a radar gun, who pull
us over as a group. One of them comes over and starts talking to me and I
play dumb tourista. He walks me over to his other buddy and starts to
explain the fine. I ask if we can settle it there. He says we can and hits
me up for about thirty bucks apiece. I pay it and they split quickly, as
this too is another pay-off. We do take it a little easier the rest of the
way into Lima, which is where we find ourselves now.
==
Kenneth & Vicki Upchurch kupchu9702@yahoo.com
VSUpchurch@yahoo.com
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We spend almost a week in
La Paz waiting for parts from the States.
The
battery on Vickiīs bike has quit holding enough of a charge to start the
bike if we leave it sitting for more than overnight. We find that we can
bump start it, which is pushing it and letting out the clutch rapidly in
order to get the engine to fire. We are worried that it will only get
worse, so we order a new battery from the U.S., because none are available
here. While we are at it, we also order the other items that we need, like
an entire turn signal housing and the rear brake light switch. The turn
signal housing was lost to a fire that was caused by the exhaust melting
the left rear turn signal. The bag that we were carrying on the rear
luggage rack was pushing down on the rubber staff placing the turn signal
housing in front of the exhaust, which eventually melted the entire
housing.
The shipment took longer
getting here because it included a battery, which is considered hazardous
material. But,the battery was dry and did not include any acid. Still, the
shipment was held up in the U.S. for three days till they could confirm
that.
Finally we received the
shipment. I went out to find someone with acid and a charger, so that we
could activate the battery. Once this was done we fixed Vickiīs bike and
were ready to head out. But, while in La Paz we met at the Internet a
fellow from Delaware by the name of Dennis Moore, who was living in
Bolivia and happened to be a motorcycle rider. He had just recently made
the trip down South towards Tierra del Fuego. We got to talking to him
about our plans, he suggested taking the paved road over to the coast of
Chile and riding down from there, as the roads in the South of Bolivia
were not good especially at this time of year, which is the rainy season
in the mountains.
We regretted leaving the
mountains, but opted for the pavement and the coast road since we were
well behind our schedule for making it down to Tierra del Fuego. This way
we could probably make up sometime and still be able to make it all the
way down. However, we were really already pushing the limit, considering
the weather conditions for the region. We find a great paved road once out
of the city limits of La Paz. We follow the road South towards Oruro for
about eighty miles before turning West on to a brand new paved road the
border with Chile and the coastal town of Arica.
While in Bolivia we find
ourselves on a high altitude plain called an ĻAltiplanoĻ in Spanish.
Just before the border we start to climb up to a mountain pass. The
Bolivian and Chilean borders are almost eleven miles apart, with military
bases and mine field separating them. This is due to the hostilities still
felt over the territory lost to Chile by both Bolivia and Peru during a
territorial war. Bolivia become a land locked country and lost itīs
access to the coast, as a result of this war. When we arrive at the
Chilean border it is readily apparent that this country is much more
organized and affluent than any other we have been to as of yet. At this
point we are starting to get worried about our gas situation. This being
an almost new road, it does not have any facilities as of yet. They are
building a new gas station on the Bolivian side, but it is not open
yet.
So, we ask at the Chilean
border for gas and they say fifty miles ahead. After about thirty miles we
come to a town that is down in a valley about two miles below us. There is
a sign indicating facilities available in town, but no mention of gas. We
decide because of the mileage and the sign not to waste gas by driving
down to investigate. This turns out to be a mistake as we do not come
across any other place further down the road.
As luck would have it we
finally come to a place with a couple of restaurants that look like truck
and bus stops. I pull into the first and ask for gas, but she says to try
the other place across the street. I ride over while Vicki and John wait.
Sure enough they have a small amount of fuel available out of a drum. We
pop inside the restaurant to warm-up while we wait for the fuel. They are
serving a nice looking chicken stew which we order and find to be just the
right thing for our cold bodies. We split twenty liters of fuel among the
three bikes, which means that we take on an extra gallon and a half
apiece. It turns out that this is enough to get us all to our destination
without even hitting reserve. We do however stop at the first gas station
that we find entering Arica.
We find our way along the
coast road to the Hotel Arica, which is directly on the ocean. We finally
end up in cottages on the beach, where we can park directly by the room
and unload the bikes without having to drag our stuff inside to some room.
Vicki is not feeling well and skips dinner. The next day she is not any
better. So after awhile we decide to stay and let Vicki rest. John and I
decide to do some maintenance. We check my valves and find that they are
extremely tight. So, we adjust them.
At this point I make a
decision that latter comes back to haunt us. John suggests that we take a
look at Vickiīs bike since the same mechanic worked on both. I say that
it can wait till we do a tune-up in Viņa del Mar, where I intend to
change oil, spark plugs and clean the filters. We also have new tires
arriving when we get there.
Later that day Vicki
finally gets up to have a little lunch and by evening she is feeling
better, but a bit shaky. The next day we find ourselves riding in the
great northern desert of Chile. It is an extremely stark, barren terrain
and reminds us of what the moon might look like. We ride South till we
come to the turn off back to the coast and the town of Iquique. The
approach to town is quite impressive, because you find yourself riding on
top of a sand dune about 2,500ft tall when you finally spot the town below
at sea level.
We enjoy this town even
though we are there for only a short time. The architecture in the old
part of town reminds us of New Orleans. As we are loading the bikes in the
morning a couple approaches us and we start talking. We had planed to take
the inland road since our maps show the coast road to have some dirt
portions. But, the gentleman says that he had made the trip down the coast
only two weeks earlier and it was paved all the way to Antofagasta. We
thank him for the information and head out of town down the coastal raod.
It is a fantastic road and much cooler than the desert road would have
been.
When we get to
Antofagasta we head out to look for an Internet site as we have not seen
one since Arica. It is funny but since arriving in Chile it has been far
more difficult to find Internet connections than in some of the poorer
countries. We are not quite sure why. Maybe it is because people can
afford their own here. We spend quite awhile on our scavenger hunt for the
Internet, but to no avail. We find someone willing to take us to their
home and allow us to use theirs, but we do not want to impose.
The police in Chile ride
BMW motorcycles and we have even seen a few of the new R1100 police
models, but most are riding an older R80RT model. The roads here are very
good and we are racking up a series of 260 to 300 mile days, which is
really improving our progress South. Our route from here takes us inland
once again, and by the time we get down to Copiapo we are starting to see
some vegetation and even some wine vineyards. We spend the night at a
little motel along the highway, where we can park right by the room.
Another sign of the
difference between Chile and the other countries we have visited. Our
guidebooks do not show alot of facilities between here and Viņa, so we
opt to ride to the La Serena area and look for a place to stay before we
make our final push into Viņa del Mar. We end up staying in a little
seaside village called Tongoy south of La Serena. The next morning the
hotel does not have anything but instant coffee, which Vicki will not
drink. So the day is off to a bad start.
We head out South and it
is not till we reach the town of Los Vilos before we find a gas station
with proper coffee. We are told by some folks there that we should turn
off the highway and head along the coast towards Papudo on our way to Viņa
del Mar. We do and it is a spectacular drive which reminds me of parts of
the California coast. The coast is lined with gorgeous summer homes
belonging to folks that live in Santiago. Things are rather quiet at the
moment along here as it is late fall and heading into the winter season.
When we arrive in Viņa we find that the hotel that we had picked out in
the guidebook is not open anymore. So, it is back to the book to locate
another, which we do and it turns out to be in the heart of the shopping
district with an Internet site just a block and a half away. I contact
Willy Samyn, who represents Pancho Villa Moto Tours here in Chile, to
inquire about our tires. He says that he has everything there, so I tell
him that I will be right over to pick things up. Vicki and I ride over and
Willy comes out to meet us. I have heard alot about him from Skip Mascorro
and he is a delightful person. We spend a little time talking and getting
to know each other. Ana, his wife, comes by with their daughter Nicole and
we all sit and chat for awhile. We invite them out to dinner, but it is
Nicoleīs eighteenth birthday and they have plans. So, we extend the
invitation to tomorrow night. Willy gives us a ride back to the hotel with
all of the tires and we say good-bye till tomorrow.
We have quite a bit of
work to do on the bikes, but I donīt want to mess up the parking lot of
the hotel. Plus, we donīt have anywhere to dump the oil when we change
it. So, I go out looking for someplace that will let us perform the work.
I luck into a Fiat car dealership only a block away that will let us work
on our bikes there and also dump our oil for us. Everything goes smoothly
until we check Vickiīs valves and they too are extremely tight. We make
the adjustment to the valves, besides changing the oil, spark plugs and
cleaning both the air and oil filters. We leave changing out the front
tires until the next morning in the hotel parking lot since this is not a
messy job. But, we take the old tires over to the dealership to dispose of
them for us. The bikes are now ready for the next leg of the trip.
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