The tour started in El Paso where at the pre-departure briefing, I met up with the people who would be my riding companions for the next week . We had a total of 13 travelers and two staff members.  Alberto Clave was leading the ride on his R100GS PD, and Rob Swan was driving "The Cockroach" aka La Cucaracha, a Chevy Suburban with a trailer that is the tour support vehicle.

The group represented a cross section of the country --- there were the Montanans -- Roger, Karl, and Paula from Montana (2KLR 650's and one Suzuki); Bud and Mike and Wayne as the Hoosier group (two KLRs and one Honda); "Connecticut" Mike riding a  KLR; John from Arkansas on a new KLR (who at every stop was seen inspecting and comparing his new bike to the GS's); Saul and Al from Oregon each on a BMW R100GS PD; Steve riding two up with Christina on an R1100 GSA, and yours truly on his 95 R100GSPD.

After a briefing on what to expect and how the tour would run, passing out of forms for the border crossing in the morning, uniforms (Pancho Villa Tours T-shirts), and a few other goodies, we adjourned for dinner at an around the corner steakhouse. After ordering a draft beer, and as I watched around the table and saw ice teas, cokes, and water being ordered it occurred to me that perhaps I was in the wrong crowd. Either I was riding with an entire random assembly of 12 steppers or I was in for some slow evenings with these teetotalers. Later however it became evident that it must've been first night jitters or anxiety regarding the morning ride to negotiate El Paso and the border crossing. Subsequent evenings saw us as a group run one restaurant entirely out of cervezas, so things picked up.

The following morning, some of the dual sporters other than the BMW's sturggled in getting all of their luggage strapped onto their bikes. Fortunately there was enough room in El Cucaracha to take part of the luggage load from the smaller dual-sporters. The Suburban also carried an assortment of tools, spare parts and fluids, some tires, tire repair stuff, water, some emergency cerveza, and other miscellany while towing a heavy duty 3-bike trailer behind.

Getting across the border in a group of 13 bikes turned out to be uncomplicated, and we followed Alberto  through the streets of El Paso, across the Rio Grande bridge and into Juarez. It was early Sunday morning and pretty quiet without the full complement of border tourist vultures and with comfortable ease we moved through the city and out into the country side.

We'd been warned but I was still startled at what a spectacle we were seen to be by the people along the road. A memorable sight was an extended family of 15 or so, in which every single one from Grandpa down to the 3 year old all stood and waved kindly at us as we passed. As the days went by the common experience was that most people along the way would stop and watch us pass. About half would wave on their own, and all would reciprocate if one of us waved. We all had practice in doing the Queen Elizabeth wave.

This was just the beginning of the kindness and gentility that we experienced from virtually everyone wherever we went in central Mexico. The difference from the border towns was marked and dramatic as we moved into the towns and areas where tourists were uncommon and life went along on an independent pace without searching out tourist dollars as a part of daily existence.

The drivers were courteous and generally as reasonable as stateside, and while there are differences to quickly appreciate and adapt to, it was never particularly challenging or threatening to negotiate the Mexican roads. Virtually all of the prejudices we had heard about Mexican drivers turned out to be unfounded. One lesson quickly learned though is that when you are overtaking a moving vehicle, most drivers, particularly truck drivers, if they can see that the road is clear ahead, will signal you by turning on their left turn signal. Also of course the left turn signal may indicate an upcoming left turn. While it sounds confusing, it really is simple, as a left turn signal coupled with slowing down or brake lights is a good clue that a left turn is the meaning, while a clear road or no intersection or driveway coming up on the left is a pretty good clue that a pass is possible. Alberto cautioned us about making assumptions about the road condition. Obstacles in the road, bovine and other, broken pavement, loose rock (grava suelta), etc. all are a bit more frequent than on U.S. equivalent roads.

Along the U.S. border for 20 kilometers there is the Zona Frontera as a different legal zone with different rules for both visitors and locals. As a visitor, if you are going to remain within the 20km zone, no special vehicle permits are required. To pass the 20km zone, you have to complete import forms, pay a $12 deposit with a credit card, and obtain a sticker for the vehicle that you subsequently surrender when you depart the border outbound. Having a native Spanish speaker along to shepherd your group through this process is decidedly helpful. We were a couple of hours having the bikes inspected, serial numbers verified, stickers issued, and multiple thwacking of documents with rubber stamps.

Lunch was well received as with the excitement of the beginning of the trip, none of us had done much more than have coffee and juice in the morning.  And with the delays getting the bikes registered, it was mid afternoon when we reached Ascension'.    The owners were expecting us and like wolves we devoured the basic Mexican fare that was available.  It was made festive by the good will of the riding companions and the warm reception we received from the people at the restaurant.  After eating our fill, the staff and owners all came out and posed for pictures along side the bikes.