R100GS Checklist

Checklist for Preparing the R100GS
for The Long Tour

You can use a professional to do these tasks or you can do some or all of them yourself. If you choose to do them yourself, then make certain you do it right, and take pains to validate that by having your work checked or otherwise inspected by another party.

In every case, when you lift the wrench you assume your own risk. If you aren't completely certain, then resolve that uncertainty with a pro, and "learn by stealing with your eyes" ... most, unfortunately not all, are willing to share and don't mind educating reasonable people about maintaining your bike.

This checklist was built a little from personal experience, some from reading "the book", and a lot from asking questions and talking with knowledgeable pros at A&S BMW and Deming Cycle, from personal discussions with experienced riders, and by dialogues on the BMW-GS Listserv mail list.

There are more spares you can carry and there are less. This isn't a "bible", but rather a compendium that is a starting point for you to consider.

Spare Parts to Carry (for an R100GS)

(note if you are traveling with one or more companions then dividing the spare parts amongst the group is a good plan both operationally and economically)

Plenty of fresh tire plugs / inflators, etc.

tubes to fit each of your tires (a sidewall puncture or tear cannot be fixed, but with a tube and installed you may be able to limp out to where a new tire is available)

Spare bulb and fuse kit

2 quarts motor oil

spare spark plugs

device to bypass the oil cooler if it gets holed in a crash. (Touratech )

Spare Clutch cable (or replace before the trip as a cheap preventative maintenance)

Spare diode board

diode board mounting bushings (better yet, install the Motorrad Electrik solid mounts and skip this and the next item) see note from Rick Jones on this

BMW diode board grounding strap kit (the replacement one)

Spare rubber bushing for exhaust system mount

Oil based air filter that is cleanable v. disposable paper filters

spare clutch & brake lever (clutch more necessary than brake -- you can go a long way with only a rear brake, but you have only one clutch)

BMW Owner's Anonymous

Phone numbers / locations of BMW dealers along your route, and those who are willing and prepared to do express international shipment of parts if needed.

Small collection of spare metric nuts and bolts that are common for your bike

Tools to add to basic tool kit

	Small pair of vice grip pliers (lots of uses including a gearshift if yours gets broken off)
	2 tubes of JB Kwik epoxy (repair holes in valve covers, oil sump or glue things together.)
	Duct tape
	Electric tape
	3-4 feet of 14 gauge wire
	small size aerosol can of WD-40 to clean and dry out electrical connections
	Alternator rotor puller
	Feeler gauges for valve adjustment
	Tire irons
	Small 12v air pump, or foot pump. (if you may encounter sand, mud, or snow, then lowering tire air pressure may be the only way through it, and reinflation will be needed on the other side.)
	Repair manual for your bike
	Miniature electric multimeter … trace faults, test equipment, etc.

Bike preparations beyond normal servicing

	Make sure the "normal servicing" includes checking / lubing of the drive splines and drive train
	Check your tires, and replace as necessary or make plans/advance arrangements to replace enroute. For major expeditions, Mexican trips, etc. have new or almost new tires on your bike.
	Make certain your tire choice is right for the type and mix of riding you'll be doing.
	Check front fork seals. If weeping even slightly, replace.
	Check steering neck bearings. If even slightly "notched" replace, ride, then adjust.
	Visually inspect the diode board, grounding straps, and mounts.
	Replace the standard diode board mounts with the Motorrad Electrik solid mounts. If you do this, you can eliminate the spare mounts and grounding strap from your spares kit.
	Apply dielectric grease to the spark plug wires at both ends
	Remove the ignition module, and clean its mounting surface, then remount after spreading dielectric grease on the contact area
	Go through the all of the available and accessible nuts and bolts (other than internal to the engine itself) on the bike, loosen them, apply blue Locktite™ , and then appropriately retighten using a torque wrench and the manufacturer's specified torque settings.
	Inspect wheel bearings and lube/replace as required..
	Install an engine/oil pan bash/skid plate (PD version already has this installed)
	Install exhaust/center stand bash plate
	Install a larger plate on the side stand foot to provide a bigger footprint in the dirt
	Lube your center stand and check it very carefully for cracks
	Clean the alternator brushes (and check for size) and slip rings
	Install in line fuel filters that are cleanable (and carry spares)
	Check your air filter and replace/clean if at all dirty
	Replace tire valve caps with valve core type removing caps
	Have a pro inspect the drive shaft and u-joint. [Note: R100GS's have an engineering design defect that has never been fixed. The drive shafts go out somewhere around 30-40K typically, but in some cases as low as at 10K. Usually, a skilled mechanic can tell in advance if it is checked. There is no fix other than installing a new drive shaft. Eurotech makes a replacement drive shaft that has greasable zerk fittings that many people have installed and are happy with. Eurotech is at 119A Lee Road Watsonville, CA 95076 USA 800-845-4022
	Consider replacing fork springs with Progressive ones. Exercise caution when refilling to make certain you have the right amount of fork oil to have the right suspension damping and travel. If any doubt at all, have it checked by an expert/professional.
	Consider replacing the rear monoshock with a Fox or Ohlins adjustable. (or alternatively use this trip to wring the last bit of life from the monoshock then replace it when you get home).
	Install some sort of brake light helper (hyperlights etc.)
	Consider wiring in a switch to turn off the headlight while running. This is primarily if doing extended off roading at low speed where charging may be marginal and turning off the headlight eliminates the drain and keeps a fully charged battery). Can be done by installing a Euro switch, or by rewiring the existing key switch.
	Consider swapping out the stock windscreen for a Parabellum. If you are going to do extended off roading, then consider the shorter of the Parabellums … easier to stand on the pegs and not have the screen in your face.
	Consider swapping the dual seat for a BMW solo seat with luggage rack.
	Battery ... if over 4 years old (some say 3), replace if you are going to be in any remote area. (Batteries are reputedly the most common failure on guided tours.)

Heavy duty parts to consider hauling if gone to really remote areas or long tours:

	Voltage regulator
	Alternator rotor (make certain you have a rotor puller in tool kit)
	Alternator brushes
	Oil filters
	Crush washers, o-rings, etc. for oil filter
	Spare gasket set for valve covers
	Spray oil to enable re-oiling air filter
	spare diaphragms for carbs
	Drive shaft (or have it replaced before you go)
	throttle cables (both)