R1100RT Paralever bearing to new bushing upgrade - Beta Test

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R1100RT Paralever bearing to new bushing upgrade - Beta Test

Postby tjrob2000 » Mon Jan 19, 2015 10:17 pm

Hi All,

I've been preparing for replacing the pivot bearings on my '96R1100RT and doing research on procedure and the JL bushing replacement. I approached a mechanic in Scotts Valley, CA who has experience with the JL setup and I was warned off it due to wear concerns. In my conversations via email he asked if I would try a different bushing replacement that he had put together and I agreed. He gave me the parts while I do the install and document with pictures and posts on the forums. I got the bushings yesterday and put pictures online at photobucket (see link below). I did the replacement over this last weekend. Notes are below.

Link: http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/tjrob ... eplacement

Replacement using these bushings is really quite simple and easier than the JL bushing setup. These pins with this setup sit all the way in the bushing and have a zerk fitting for lubing. The bottom of the pin (should have taken a pic here) has a channel for the lube to squeeze through and into the bushing area.

Here's my steps for disassembly/assembly:
1. Remove the rear wheel, brake caliper, ABS sensor (remember to keep the shims), and brake disc.
2. Remove the nut on the paralever bolt.
3. Place a jack under the paralever connection to be able to lift the drive some while removing the pins.
4. I used a MAPP gas torch to heat up the loctite on the pins (since I did not know if there was any or not) then loosened the pins.
5. Holding the drive I removed the pins then the bolt for the paralever connection.
6. I inspected the pins, swing arm threads, and bearings for condition. The pins showed no signs of any Loctite so heating was unnecessary. For installation of the new bushings/pins I used blue loctite since red is really overkill.
7. The bearings on the left side looked in pretty good condition, but the right was definitely worn. There was one roller missing and the bushing on the right side has indentations for each roller.
8. Bearing in mind the need to make sure the u-joints are phased I made this easy by marking the u-joint on the final drive and the housing. I had the trans in 1st gear so the driveshaft never moved. I also lubed the splines on the driveshaft connection.
9. To make sure I got the new bushings in straight I used a friend's press. The new bushings sit flush with the housing, not recessed.
10. I installed the drive unit. I put some blue loctite on each pin and installed them. Then I torqued the right side to 111 ft-lbs as spec'd in the manual. The left side I screwed in until it felt snug. Remember, these pins fit solidly into the bushing and there is no adjustment that a tapered bushing or bearing would have. I then installed the locking nut on the left side and torqued it to 77 ft-lbs.
11. Lastly I reassembled the brake disc, caliper, abs sensor (remembered the shims smile ), and put the wheel back on and re-hung the muffler. Also, I had drained the final drive prior to removing it so I refilled it at this point.

I checked for any movement both with just the final drive and with the wheel on and it is now very tight. No movement at all. I took her out for a short ride and all feels good. I'll get a long ride in tomorrow when I go to work. Mileage at install is 149,8xx miles. I'll update here as the miles rack up on how they look to be wearing. I'm hopeful these will be a better alternative to the OEM needle bearings.

I noticed some things on the way home today. The bike is much more stable and secure. Naturally this is not because of the bushings themselves but because the pivot is now tight. I'll not ride it again with play back there. I thought she was stable before, but this is quite a difference.

You can also follow the thread on BMWRT.com. http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/u ... Post917814

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