cure for float bowl stick-airheads

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cure for float bowl stick-airheads

Postby Onecloud » Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:26 pm

I read a top ten list of "always remember to" and always do. It said to flush your tank every year, clean your filters.....so.....so you don't get stuck floats when on reserve. Dirty down yonder... folks. Enjoy!
Back of the pack...eatin snacks...lookin for grease...following geese...in country peace.
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Re: cure for float bowl stick-airheads

Postby Shopdoc » Mon Mar 24, 2014 7:04 am

You can pick the internet advice. It is interesting and I subscribe to it but all is not for everyone.

I question flushing the tank. Flick the wire loop and see what's in the float bowl, compare the fuel level in both bowls will tell if one is abnormal and a problem. Crud is easy to spot. I'm quickly back on the road.

Have a great ride on our /7's.
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Re: cure for float bowl stick-airheads

Postby Onecloud » Tue Mar 25, 2014 12:05 am

I have not flushed my tank in 5 years and kept seeing the gas pouring out the left carb about a dozen times...and wondered if the bike was going to ignite on the hotpipes. I thought about putting a splash pan under the floatbowl to trickle the gas away from mucho-caliente. The flush seemed to be the right thing to do here...I feel good about it now. The tank had all kinds of flakes in that dirty 6gal aquarium. Right side had a pretty clean filter...but the left has it all on that leaning kickstand side. I also t-split the crankcase breather tube to each carb. I keep a stock paper air filter...which is best for those diaphram Bings. Batta Bing! Enjoy!
Back of the pack...eatin snacks...lookin for grease...following geese...in country peace.
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Re: cure for float bowl stick-airheads

Postby Greg Gibson » Thu Apr 03, 2014 5:18 pm

25 year old airhead with 160+k, and I have NEVER flushed the tank. I run a filter on each side, rebuild the carbs every 50k or so. Try to buy only name-brand premium, but the bike has 15k or so south of the border, running on gas from barrels, etc. Easy to check the fuel situation, pry off the bails, check for water/crud. Dump out bowls. Turn on fuel taps while gently lifting float bowls with finger. Fuel should shut off when the mold line on floats are roughly parallel with carb body. Unscrew the pilot jets, they can get clogged with little bits of "stuff". Blow them out with your mouth (ummmmmm, gasoline), screw them back in and all should be well. Airhead bing carbs are about as fool proof as carbs get. Always check for fuel flowing with the bowls off. I have seen cases where the staked plunger on the float needle gives way, creating a bowl that will not fill. I restaked a float needle on the side of hwy 299 near Alturas, using a 16d nail I pulled out of a fence post, but after your first rebuild, put one of the good, used float needles in your tool box as a spare.
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Re: cure for float bowl stick-airheads

Postby Shopdoc » Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:43 am

Friends,
I restored a Honda 70 that had not run for years. One problem was a frozen up carburetor and a gas tank that looked like a cave with stalactite and stalagmite columns of rust. Filling the tank with vinegar and letting it sit, then flushing the debris several times gave me a bright, shinny inside again, and the in-line filter stayed clean. The six horsepower bike, I called Daisy, was a blast to ride.
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Re: cure for float bowl stick-airheads

Postby Gordon Olson » Fri Apr 04, 2014 8:34 am

......I love it when you guys talk carb-dirty!!

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Re: cure for float bowl stick-airheads

Postby Onecloud » Mon Dec 15, 2014 3:36 pm

A better way to keep floats from overflowing I find is to keep your bike on the center stand. Kind of like a level-o-gauge. To get your brake fluid to flow down from the reservoir...you need to do the opposite...tilt the bike to one side to have the flow go down.
Back of the pack...eatin snacks...lookin for grease...following geese...in country peace.
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