River City Beemers

Camping & Touring

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stoves

tents

Stoves

The general issues to deal with are:

• size (compactness),
• fuel type (liquid gasoline or gaseous propane/butane),
• ease of starting up, 
• heat/flame adjustability,
• heat output (time to boil a qt of water),
• price of the stove, and
• cost/availability of the fuel.

Adjustability.  Generally this doesn't get much attention, but some of the "backpacker" stoves are adjustable to be able to simmer, others not.  If you are going to do more than boil water, the adjustable types are much better.  There are a number of stoves with very high ratings from backpackers that are understood best when you realize that backpackers typically take freeze-dried food only and make drinks, so they mainly require a full on high heat setting. The MSR Whisperlite as an example in this class is not readily adjustable.

Adjustable stoves let you adjust the flame down very low or in between to some setting other than "high".    This allows you to hold things in a warm condition, simmer, or use frying pans or griddles where other than "high" is desired.  For most motorcycle campers, I suspect they are the better choice.  In liquid fuel stoves, the Coleman Peak 1, Peak 1 Dual Fuel, and all of the propane (Primus) or butane (GAZ) stoves are adjustable.  The most compact model of butane is the GAZ.  There are some newer (and pricier) MSR stoves that are adjustable as well.

Liquid fuel vs. gas (propane or butane).
Liquid fuel stoves that burn white gas or unleaded all require pumping to pressureize, and also require some level of priming or fiddling with to get a stable flame.  Once that is done, they are reliable and consistent.  If let cool, you have to go through the pump and prime routine again to start them up.    Occasionally they flood and you get to have a beacon of flame in the sky, otherwise known as a "Coleman moment".  They have the cheapest fuel.   And if you don't mind occasionally having to clean out the stove jets, you can use your motorcycle's unleaded fuel.  There is some minimal danger of a leak from a fuel bottle being transported or stored.

Gas, either propane or butane.   Both are generally readily available, with propane being everywhere, and butane (GAZ) being generally available at camping supply stores.  An extended trip into remote areas might suggest that the GAZ butane would be less suitable as it is probably the least common fuel but for most activities of club members there is no problem readily finding any of the fuels.  The gas choice is marked by a more expensive fuel, but cheaper stoves.  They have  readily adjustable flame and heat levels just like a kitchen stove, and there is no priming, no pumping.    They are virtually "instant on" with a match and a twist of the valve.   There is virtually no danger from fuel leakage.  The fuel bottles are disposable. 

Personal comments:  On a recent campout, in trying to use a griddle over two MSR Whisperlights to cook a crew meal, I either had too much heat and was either burning the tortillas, or the flames blew out (several times).  Altogether not very satisfactory.  Part of the problem was the lack of adjustability.  I've been using a Primus propane stove for awhile and it cooks beautifully ... cheap ($20) and readily available fuel (Coleman propane cannisters).   No pumping or priming to get my morning coffee going ... twist and strike a match and instant heat.   Not very compact though.   For more compact packing needs, see my new favorite below.

• modest cost
• stores small
• has an infinitely adjustable flame
• no pumping, instant on

Some suggest that having to use butane cannisters is a significant disadvantage because they have to be discarded and are not reusable.   OK true, except the cannister is only thinly rolled steel about the size of a large can of beans, and nobody worries about that being reusable.  And it is recyclable guys. Also, the argument is that you have to carry out the empty.  Gee, unless I am mistaken, most campsites have trash bins don't they?  And do you throw away your MSR gasoline bottle when it is empty? 

The no pumping and variable flame are the real advantages that make it almost as easy to use as your kitchen stove.

The world abounds with great tents.  They will see you through 14 days in a base camp on Mount Everest, provide you with a snug lair when the snow piles up 8 feet around you, and otherwise withstand gales across the glacier, and be fire retardant to boot.

What do you really need in a motorcycle camping tent?  Several ingredients on my list:

• as small to pack as possible
• quick to erect
• stakes are ok, but as few as possible
• easy to get into and out of (read tall doorway)
• low cost ... let's put the $$ in the bike not the tent
• adequate for one person plus clothes
• good waterproof floor and water shedding design

Considerations:

Free standing v. staking required.   Freestanding tents have the apparent advantage of not needing to be staked.  Well that is only true if there is no wind and no chance of rain.  In both cases, staking still is needed.  The downside to freestanding tents is that they always use more pole than a staked version, and frequently use also a hub or other contrivance to join the poles.  Those features add weight, bulk, and frequently time to the erection process.  Simple compact tents are more often designed to use fewer poles but they do require staking.

Claustrophobia.  Personally, I've spent months in tents and am at home and comfortable there.  (We will exclude for the moment the story about the Alaska brown bear sniffing and poking all sides of the tent for 30minutes on a very long night).   Small does not bother me as long as I can get in and out with reasonable ease.   If you tend toward feeling restricted then consider a little larger tent, but even more important, consider one with bigger doorways and screened views.

Entryways. Most of us aren't as youthful and limber as we once were.  I don't know about you, but I've just had to quit doing that jumping up from flat on your back to erect on your feet thing anymore.  Just too tough on the joints.   The point is that some tents that are just about the same size internally have radically different door sizes and heights.  If you are a bit creaky or just want a fast exit path, then a tall door can be an advantage.  Some designs have the door on the side of the tent rather than the end and that makes for very easy entry/exit.  (That may be a tradeoff though in poles, size and weight.)

Ventilation.  Get a tent with good flow through ventilation.  Think about trying to survive between bugs and heat and no motel in sight.  The perfect tent for the Sierras in May, may kill you when you decide to do the rally in Texas in June next year.

Single wall v. double.   Double wall tents have been the mainstay for many years since synthetics replaced natural fibers as the main choice for tents.  The reason is to assure breathability and waterproofness.  This had not been possible previously, but recently some tent manufacturers have come out with single wall tents that purport to be waterproof.

Things to avoid:

• If it is advertised as a 4-season tent, you are probably wasting dollars, weight and space.  May look cool but you don't need it.
• Vestibules.  Great for snowstorms or absolute horrid weather.  Me I prefer Holiday Inn.  Plus they sometimes get in the way of getting in and out.
• 3 person size (or larger than needed for you, clothes, (companion if such).  For extended stays in one spot, this may be a good option but for 1-2 night stops don't get more tent than you need ... it translates to more space consumed, more time to set up and to tear down, and more $$ gone.

Gary Stofer has long beaten everyone in the setup when he brings along his 60-second self-erecting tent.  Now you too can own one>  http://shop.store.yahoo.com/campmor/24450.html